Potty training your new puppy is not always an easy task. Some pups are easy to train while others seem to take much longer. It will take a lot of patience, but your dog will learn.
The newspaper method seems to be the best way for a dog to learn. A space of his own where he has his food, water, toys and bed is ideal. Cover the entire area with newspaper. When you have to leave him home, shut him in this area. After a while, he will start using one spot on the newspapers. Start removing the other pieces of newspaper a bit at a time. Soon, "his" area will become just that one spot. As he gets older, he will be able to wait until you get home to go. Don't punish your dog if he misses the newspaper. He won't know what you are punishing him for.
"Puppy pads" are a good alternative to old newspapers. They are a lot more sanitary and they are much easier to clean up.
Always take your dog outside (to his designated area) as soon as you get home. She needs to know that outside is her potty area. When you are at home, spend as much time with her as you can and watch her closely. She will show signs of needing to "go" by getting restless, turning in circles and sniffing out areas. Take her outside immediately. Praise her lavishly when she does her business outside. It is also helpful to carry treats with you when you are first training her to potty outside.
Take your puppy outside every 45 minutes or so because you may not always be able to tell when he needs the "bathroom." Again, praise him and show him how excited you are that he is being a "good" boy. You will not need to go outside with her after a while. Once she knows where she is supposed to go, she will always go to that spot.
You can show disapproval when your puppy goes in the house but do not -- I repeat -- do NOT ever hit him. He won't learn any faster by using cruel methods such as these.
Some dogs wet themselves when they get excited about something or when they are especially happy to see someone. This is called submissive urinating and can be quite a problem with young dogs. It can be especially embarrassing if Fido "goes" on a visitor to your home. This type of bathroom training is not as easy to do as normal training. Potty training your dog will help him know he should only go outside.
There is no set age when you dog is considered to be properly potty trained. In fact, a puppy can't be considered fully trained until it is at least six months old. And, some dogs will be older still.
2008年8月24日星期日
2008年8月19日星期二
Doggy Treats or Pet Training Treat - Do You Know the Difference?
When you are trying to train your pet you will need a ready supply of canine motivational incentives, otherwise known as treats. The use of dog treats as a training motivator is nothing new to pet trainers, and for good reason. To your dog these tasty treats can be quite an effective training tool. Unfortunately there does seem to be some confusion over the difference of what is classified as a doggy treat and a dog "training" treat. Let's take a moment to clarify the difference.
First thing to keep in mind is that anything your feed your dog outside of their normal feeding time can be considered a treat. Whether your feeding him Twinkies (not good), or beefy chews (good), extra food is looked at as a reward. What makes a dog training treat special is that you should only use those specific treats during training sessions.
If you are rewarding your dog for normal daily good behavior, or when you simply feel the need to give your pet a tasty treat, then by all means give them a treat they will enjoy, but be careful, as too many rewards given for no effort diminishes the effectiveness of each reward.
But when you are actively training your pets, you will want to use a superior quality treat. Pick something that they will absolutely go nuts for. Simple generic biscuits might just not be enough to get your dog to do stuff. Break out the dried liver treats or the chicken jerky. You want you pet's undivided attention when you're training them, and what better way then to use treats they gobble right up. Make sure that your pet is performing the required tasks before he gets this treat.
I keep a jar full of regular treats, much about the consistency of their normal food. They get these for going in their crates at night or as a simple reward. When training I will use a single piece of human quality jerked chicken. One piece can be broken into smaller pieces and will last an entire 30 minute training session. The response is often enough to cause the dog to forget about additional distractions, like the other dogs in the kennel.
We're not talking keeping an entire cupboard of separate treats, but you should separate them so your dog can learn the difference between them. When your dog is getting rewarded all the time from normal treats, you have to step up the treat for better responsiveness during training sessions. This is not rocket science; just have two sets of treats, one normal and one of a much higher quality.
First thing to keep in mind is that anything your feed your dog outside of their normal feeding time can be considered a treat. Whether your feeding him Twinkies (not good), or beefy chews (good), extra food is looked at as a reward. What makes a dog training treat special is that you should only use those specific treats during training sessions.
If you are rewarding your dog for normal daily good behavior, or when you simply feel the need to give your pet a tasty treat, then by all means give them a treat they will enjoy, but be careful, as too many rewards given for no effort diminishes the effectiveness of each reward.
But when you are actively training your pets, you will want to use a superior quality treat. Pick something that they will absolutely go nuts for. Simple generic biscuits might just not be enough to get your dog to do stuff. Break out the dried liver treats or the chicken jerky. You want you pet's undivided attention when you're training them, and what better way then to use treats they gobble right up. Make sure that your pet is performing the required tasks before he gets this treat.
I keep a jar full of regular treats, much about the consistency of their normal food. They get these for going in their crates at night or as a simple reward. When training I will use a single piece of human quality jerked chicken. One piece can be broken into smaller pieces and will last an entire 30 minute training session. The response is often enough to cause the dog to forget about additional distractions, like the other dogs in the kennel.
We're not talking keeping an entire cupboard of separate treats, but you should separate them so your dog can learn the difference between them. When your dog is getting rewarded all the time from normal treats, you have to step up the treat for better responsiveness during training sessions. This is not rocket science; just have two sets of treats, one normal and one of a much higher quality.
2008年8月12日星期二
Crate Training For Your Puppy
Teaching your puppy crate training is the first and best step in his life. It makes all the other steps in his training go so much smoother, much like a solid foundation makes for a superior wall. Establishing you as the Alpha member of his “pack” is one very good reason for starting your puppy in a crate when he is very young.
Another reason for crate training is that dogs love predictability. To know what is going to happen in any given situation makes him happy, and more apt to be the best-behaved dog he can possibly be.
A strong crate is the very basis of good puppy training. A wire crate with a lock is the best kind. Make sure it is large enough for him to stand up and turn around. But not so large that he can roam and wander around. A too-large crate will inhibit house breaking.
A crate that is just the right size will be perceived as his “nest”, where puppies never “go potty”. They will learn to hold it if you don’t make a prison out of it. Never leave a puppy under 8 weeks longer than one hour in his crate. He will soil it, after struggling and suffering as long as he can.
Put a nice pad in there with a bone. Start with placing a tasty treat in there, he will go in and get it. Do this several times without closing the door, let him come in and out freely for an hour or so. Praise him highly each time he goes in, make it all very pleasant.
Then when his attention is on his treat, close the door. Praise him quietly, say, “What a good boy, it’s ok, such a good boy!” In 10 or 20 seconds, no longer, let him out without a word, no praise, just a pat. Do this for increasingly longer intervals, but do not give him a chance to get upset. You can do this several times the first day.
Make sure every training session ends on a happy note, this is crucial.
Once he sees the crate is his own private territory, he will go in there on his own, expecting treats and your attention. When he does, say, “Wanna crate?” with a happy face while getting his treats. Start leaving the room while he is in there for 2 minutes and onward, gradually. When you return, don’t make a fuss, just walk over and open the crate. In 3 days he will be officially crate-trained, ready to be left alone for an hour, no longer at first. Leave him gradually longer, slowly and carefully.
Q. Why do I want a crate for my puppy?
A. Because they love it is the best reason. They feel very safe and secure in there. Here are some more:
--When you leave a puppy alone, he always has some measure of separation anxiety. This leads him to any behavior that brings him comfort, which is chewing, digging, or when it is severe, voiding his bowels.
--When placed in a crate, he feels safe because nothing can get to him, nothing can harm him. He will sleep and chew and wait for you to return.
--When leaving him overnight at the vet, if your dog is not crate trained he will cry the entire time, feeling lost and abandoned. With crate training, he is sure you will return, you always do. Of course the vet’s office is strange and will cause him some anxiety, but nothing like the pure terror he will feel without experience in being locked in.
NOTE: About crate-training, do not make a prison of his crate. Do not use it as punishment. Do not leave him there for more than 2 hours, just time for a long puppy nap and some chew time. After that he will cry. Do not remove him while he is crying. This will make him think he has to cry to get out. No matter what, make sure he is being good when you open the door. He will learn he has to be quiet to get out. Do not make a fuss when you are letting him out, just quietly open the door and take him out to potty. When he potties, praise him to high heaven! Dogs naturally do not go where they nest, but sometimes it happens. Do not scold, just clean it out with a bland face. He will learn the lesson. If possible, try to clean it while he is outside so he returns to a clean crate.
In 25 years of training dogs, I have never seen any one thing more critical for a dog's well-being than good crate training. And besides, they love it!
Another reason for crate training is that dogs love predictability. To know what is going to happen in any given situation makes him happy, and more apt to be the best-behaved dog he can possibly be.
A strong crate is the very basis of good puppy training. A wire crate with a lock is the best kind. Make sure it is large enough for him to stand up and turn around. But not so large that he can roam and wander around. A too-large crate will inhibit house breaking.
A crate that is just the right size will be perceived as his “nest”, where puppies never “go potty”. They will learn to hold it if you don’t make a prison out of it. Never leave a puppy under 8 weeks longer than one hour in his crate. He will soil it, after struggling and suffering as long as he can.
Put a nice pad in there with a bone. Start with placing a tasty treat in there, he will go in and get it. Do this several times without closing the door, let him come in and out freely for an hour or so. Praise him highly each time he goes in, make it all very pleasant.
Then when his attention is on his treat, close the door. Praise him quietly, say, “What a good boy, it’s ok, such a good boy!” In 10 or 20 seconds, no longer, let him out without a word, no praise, just a pat. Do this for increasingly longer intervals, but do not give him a chance to get upset. You can do this several times the first day.
Make sure every training session ends on a happy note, this is crucial.
Once he sees the crate is his own private territory, he will go in there on his own, expecting treats and your attention. When he does, say, “Wanna crate?” with a happy face while getting his treats. Start leaving the room while he is in there for 2 minutes and onward, gradually. When you return, don’t make a fuss, just walk over and open the crate. In 3 days he will be officially crate-trained, ready to be left alone for an hour, no longer at first. Leave him gradually longer, slowly and carefully.
Q. Why do I want a crate for my puppy?
A. Because they love it is the best reason. They feel very safe and secure in there. Here are some more:
--When you leave a puppy alone, he always has some measure of separation anxiety. This leads him to any behavior that brings him comfort, which is chewing, digging, or when it is severe, voiding his bowels.
--When placed in a crate, he feels safe because nothing can get to him, nothing can harm him. He will sleep and chew and wait for you to return.
--When leaving him overnight at the vet, if your dog is not crate trained he will cry the entire time, feeling lost and abandoned. With crate training, he is sure you will return, you always do. Of course the vet’s office is strange and will cause him some anxiety, but nothing like the pure terror he will feel without experience in being locked in.
NOTE: About crate-training, do not make a prison of his crate. Do not use it as punishment. Do not leave him there for more than 2 hours, just time for a long puppy nap and some chew time. After that he will cry. Do not remove him while he is crying. This will make him think he has to cry to get out. No matter what, make sure he is being good when you open the door. He will learn he has to be quiet to get out. Do not make a fuss when you are letting him out, just quietly open the door and take him out to potty. When he potties, praise him to high heaven! Dogs naturally do not go where they nest, but sometimes it happens. Do not scold, just clean it out with a bland face. He will learn the lesson. If possible, try to clean it while he is outside so he returns to a clean crate.
In 25 years of training dogs, I have never seen any one thing more critical for a dog's well-being than good crate training. And besides, they love it!
2008年8月11日星期一
Important Characteristics Necessary To Training A Dog
Bearing in mind that our object is to train a dumb animal for companionship we can, by appeal through the three senses, hearing, sight and feeling, accomplish great things. We can, for instance, save the dog much unnecessary punishment brought about by our own impatience: we can save ourselves the physical strain of the dog's constant pulling upon the leash. True, we do not want a mechanical robot, rendering blind obedience to our every command, but we do want a real companion as close to us in understanding as man and dog can ever be. The three senses, then, operate in combination by our use of short commands issued in varying intonations; by certain important signs of the hands made in conjunction with the voice, and by appeal to the sense of feeling by encouragement or punishment.
Perhaps right here I should caution the reader against the wrong impression which the word punishment may connote. Because punishment in this discussion does not mean whipping or starving the dog, I dislike using the expression at all. It signifies, rather, correction, so for present purposes let us employ the term correction as more exactly indicative.
Like bright colored threads predominating in a pattern, the use of the three mentioned senses will follow through the whole of our training. And just how important the combination of the three becomes, we will realize when we see how the dog associates with hearing, commands given by means of words; with seeing, commands given by means of signs; and with feeling, such things as petting and leash correction. Were the trainer to disregard even one of these senses, he would straightway find out why he, or the dog, failed in one or another lesson. Particularly are there signs, frequently almost unnoticeable to the layman and the amateur, which will mean the success or failure of the lesson.
And what of the trainer himself! There are three fundamentals with which he must be concerned - patience, concentration and seriousness of purpose.
Patience is probably the trainer's most necessary tool. Nervousness, quick temper or the slightest impatience never go hand in hand with successful training, and a person subject to any one of these failings may well think twice before he undertakes to train a dog.
On concentration, many times have I been criticized for apparent rudeness when I have refused to take part in conversations during the training period. But a serious trainer must realize how much is involved in schooling a dog untried, and of character unknown: throughout each lesson, he must study his pupil without interruption, and his attention must be given equally, in succession, to each and every dog. Training periods are comparatively short; hence it is not unduly difficult to concentrate entirely upon the dog in hand.
Another consideration vital to successful training is seriousness of purpose. Ask yourself whether you are really determined to train your dog. Is this dog under your hand to become a well behaved animal? Or is he going to be a spoiled pest, inclined to destructiveness; vicious with people, an eternal barker, constantly committing nuisance!
You will find that the work of training entails some sacrifices, but they are sacrifices worth while. For in addition to the pleasure derived from participation in organized obedience test competition, you will discover before very long that your dog is admired and respected because he is so well behaved.
And if you are sufficiently interested to continue on with your training, who knows but that this dog of yours may some day prove to be a real, front page hero by virtue of some outstanding act! Dogs owned by several of my pupils have already served the public good by helping the police to find lost persons, and by trailing and so leading to the capture of criminals.
Founded upon a thoroughly tried and approved system, the patient training of a dog by his beloved master is a worthy and satisfying work which not alone actually benefits the dog but which reflects credit upon him and upon his owner. All this at a sacrifice of but fifteen or, at the most, thirty minutes a day!
Perhaps right here I should caution the reader against the wrong impression which the word punishment may connote. Because punishment in this discussion does not mean whipping or starving the dog, I dislike using the expression at all. It signifies, rather, correction, so for present purposes let us employ the term correction as more exactly indicative.
Like bright colored threads predominating in a pattern, the use of the three mentioned senses will follow through the whole of our training. And just how important the combination of the three becomes, we will realize when we see how the dog associates with hearing, commands given by means of words; with seeing, commands given by means of signs; and with feeling, such things as petting and leash correction. Were the trainer to disregard even one of these senses, he would straightway find out why he, or the dog, failed in one or another lesson. Particularly are there signs, frequently almost unnoticeable to the layman and the amateur, which will mean the success or failure of the lesson.
And what of the trainer himself! There are three fundamentals with which he must be concerned - patience, concentration and seriousness of purpose.
Patience is probably the trainer's most necessary tool. Nervousness, quick temper or the slightest impatience never go hand in hand with successful training, and a person subject to any one of these failings may well think twice before he undertakes to train a dog.
On concentration, many times have I been criticized for apparent rudeness when I have refused to take part in conversations during the training period. But a serious trainer must realize how much is involved in schooling a dog untried, and of character unknown: throughout each lesson, he must study his pupil without interruption, and his attention must be given equally, in succession, to each and every dog. Training periods are comparatively short; hence it is not unduly difficult to concentrate entirely upon the dog in hand.
Another consideration vital to successful training is seriousness of purpose. Ask yourself whether you are really determined to train your dog. Is this dog under your hand to become a well behaved animal? Or is he going to be a spoiled pest, inclined to destructiveness; vicious with people, an eternal barker, constantly committing nuisance!
You will find that the work of training entails some sacrifices, but they are sacrifices worth while. For in addition to the pleasure derived from participation in organized obedience test competition, you will discover before very long that your dog is admired and respected because he is so well behaved.
And if you are sufficiently interested to continue on with your training, who knows but that this dog of yours may some day prove to be a real, front page hero by virtue of some outstanding act! Dogs owned by several of my pupils have already served the public good by helping the police to find lost persons, and by trailing and so leading to the capture of criminals.
Founded upon a thoroughly tried and approved system, the patient training of a dog by his beloved master is a worthy and satisfying work which not alone actually benefits the dog but which reflects credit upon him and upon his owner. All this at a sacrifice of but fifteen or, at the most, thirty minutes a day!
2008年8月7日星期四
Labrador Retriever Puppy And Dog Information
The Labrador Retriever is the most popular dog breed in the United States so there are lots of good things to say about them. They will do ok in an apartment as long as they can be walked frequently. They do like lots of exercise. If it is possible for them to experience water occasionally, so much the better as they have a water resistant coat and love to swim. A properly fenced in yard is best for them. They love people and do well with other dogs and pets, especially if socialized early. They can be good watch dogs. They need to be part of a human family so please do not neglect that requirement or they can become destructive. They are great with children. As a reminder, never leave a child unsupervised with a puppy or dog.
*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Labrador Retriever is 22 to 24 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 60 to 75 pounds. The female ranges from 21 to 24 inches to the withers and 55 to 70 pounds.
*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Labrador Retriever is no exception. Even though this is considered a hardy breed, be on the lookout for Canine Hip and Elbow Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), epilepsy (comes in various degrees and is common in dogs), skin allergies, eye disorders and skin tumors. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
*Grooming. The Labrador Retriever has a double coat of short, hard, dense and straight hair which is water repellent. She should be brushed regularly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
*Life Span. The Labrador Retriever can live between 10 and 12 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
*History. The Labrador Retriever comes from Canada where they were used by fisherman to help collect netted fish and also by hunters to retrieve ducks and other water fowl. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1917.
Some Registries:
*Labrador Retriever Club, Inc.
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry
Litter Size: 7 to 8 Labrador Retriever puppies
Category: Gundog, Sporting Group
Terms To Describe: Strong, character, soundness, outgoing, smart, kindly, non-aggressive, gentle, hard working, good natured.
*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
Good watch dog.
They are very friendly.
They want to please.
Great for kids.
She is the most popular breed in the US.
Easy to train.
*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
Poor guard dog.
May take up to two and one half years to mature.
They need lots of exercise.
*Other Names Known By: St. Johns Dogs, St. Johns Newfoundland, Lesser Newfoundland
*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Labrador Retriever is 22 to 24 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and 60 to 75 pounds. The female ranges from 21 to 24 inches to the withers and 55 to 70 pounds.
*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Labrador Retriever is no exception. Even though this is considered a hardy breed, be on the lookout for Canine Hip and Elbow Dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), epilepsy (comes in various degrees and is common in dogs), skin allergies, eye disorders and skin tumors. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
*Grooming. The Labrador Retriever has a double coat of short, hard, dense and straight hair which is water repellent. She should be brushed regularly. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
*Life Span. The Labrador Retriever can live between 10 and 12 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
*History. The Labrador Retriever comes from Canada where they were used by fisherman to help collect netted fish and also by hunters to retrieve ducks and other water fowl. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1917.
Some Registries:
*Labrador Retriever Club, Inc.
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry
Litter Size: 7 to 8 Labrador Retriever puppies
Category: Gundog, Sporting Group
Terms To Describe: Strong, character, soundness, outgoing, smart, kindly, non-aggressive, gentle, hard working, good natured.
*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
Good watch dog.
They are very friendly.
They want to please.
Great for kids.
She is the most popular breed in the US.
Easy to train.
*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
Poor guard dog.
May take up to two and one half years to mature.
They need lots of exercise.
*Other Names Known By: St. Johns Dogs, St. Johns Newfoundland, Lesser Newfoundland
*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
订阅：
博文 (Atom)