It is imperative to clip your cat’s claws on a regular basis. When this isn’t done, a cat’s claws can grow into its paw pads, which may result in pain and infection. A veterinarian will be happy to show you how to properly trim a cat’s nails in a way that will not harm the animal. While many people choose to have their cats declawed, this is not the only way to eliminate its scratching. It can also be very painful for the pet. Felines can be trained to scratch only in designated areas, such as a well-designed post.
cat owners should do as much research as possible regarding the proper care of cats. They should also own at least one book or pamphlet on emergency first aid. By familiarizing yourself with emergency procedures, you could possibly save your cat’s life. Do not attempt to treat your cat with any medications, like aspirin, ibuprofen or suphedrine. Many medicines intended for humans can be poisonous to cats.
Dogs may be a man’s best friend, but many animal lovers adore keeping cats as pets because of the animal’s warm yet independent spirit. There are steps that you can take to keep your pet healthy and to avoid any issues or concerns. By using a combination of care, prevention and pet health products, you can ensure your cat’s companionship for years to come.
There are two important ways in which you can maintain your cat’s health and happiness. Scheduling annual veterinarian check-ups allow a professional to give special care and attention to your cat. This allows the vet to stay current with the shots and regular exams that felines require. Paying attention to any physical changes in your pet will give you a better idea of your pet’s health. Investing in a few specialized, approved pet health products can also make a significant difference.
Conduct an overall evaluation of your cat when you are petting or sitting with it. Take a quick look at the animal from nose to tail. It is smart to do this on a regular basis and at a set time, your pet will grow accustomed to it and you will not forget its daily check-up. Alert your veterinarian if you discover any potential concerns. Begin with your cat’s head. Are its eyes clear and alert? Are its ears pink and clean? Do the ears give off a pungent smell that seems abnormal? Have bugs appeared as a dark, thick formation inside the cat’s ears? Are its gums pink and teeth healthy, clean and strong? Does tartar reside along the gum line? Has your cat developed unpleasant breath?
Gently feel and inspect your pet’s body for sores, lumps, puffiness, bumps, scratches, parasites or irregularities. Keep an eye out for flea dirt, which is similar in appearance to black pepper and appears red when dampened. Check your cat’s paws, ears and tail.
Feel free to ask your vet any questions that you may have. Don’t be afraid to verify what is and isn’t normal.
Regularly brushing your cat keeps it looking neat and tidy. Rubber brushes remove dead skin cells and loose hair. Combs that are specially designed for a cat help lift fleas and small bugs out of its hair
for:htt://www.pictures-of-cat.com
2008年9月17日星期三
2008年9月5日星期五
Dog Training: How To "Lick" Your Dog's Incessant Licking Habit!
Does your dog seem to spend an infinite amount of time licking himself? Why is he doing it? And how do you, as a dog owner, correct that annoying licking habit? Here are five of the most common reasons why your dog might be incessantly licking himself and the solutions to correcting the habit.
1. Your dog might have developed an unrelenting licking habit because he needs a bath.
If your dog spends alot of time outside, romping through the woods, tramping in the mud, rolling in the grass or wading in the nearest stream or pond, he is probably dirty. So, your dog may be constantly licking himself because the dirt is irritating him! Plus, all that outdoor activity may have gotten him infested with ticks, fleas, mites, or lice. Your dog’s incessant licking may be an attempt to rid himself of those nasty varmints!
Give him a bath with a veterinarian-approved flea and tick shampoo. Before bathing him, make sure you brush out all the mats and tangles from his coat or the bathing will make them worse.
2. Your dog might have developed a chronic licking habit because he has a skin disorder.
Some common skin disorders that a dog may develop are mange or dermatitis. Mange is a skin disease in dogs that is caused by various types of mites. The dermatitis could be caused by an allergic reaction to fleas, dust mites, mold or a certain brand of dog food. If you suspect that your dog has a case of mange or dermatitis, your veterinarian will be able to diagnose what the disorder is and prescribe a course of treatment.
3. Your dog might have developed a persistent licking habit because he is under stress.
The stress may be a result of a new adoption, physical abuse, separation anxiety, or even a reaction to a new food.
If you think separation anxiety might be the cause of his stress, there are several methods for solving the problem. Try exposing your dog to being alone for very short periods of time. When your dog has adjusted to being alone for that duration of time, gradually increase your departure period. If you must be away from your dog for a long period of time, while you are away at work, try to find a friend or neighbor who could come over and take him for a walk a couple of times during the day.
Perhaps a new dog in the family is causing the stress? It is very common to experience a period of stress and adjustment when a new dog is brought into a household that has an established pet. One way to help make the transition a little easier is to give your older dog alot of attention and love. It will let him know that he's still a vital part of the family. Just remember that it will take time for your dogs to adjust to one another and be one happy dog family!
Changing your dog’s diet can also cause stress. If you're thinking of feeding your dog a new brand of dry dog food, do it gradually and over a period of four days or longer. On the first day that you change the food, feed your dog one quarter of the new food with three quarters of the old food. Add in another quarter of the new food after a couple of days or so. After another two days, add in another quarter of the new dog food. Finally, after another couple of days or so, you will be able to leave out the old dog food entirely!
If you cannot determine the cause of your dog's stress, talk to your veterinarian. He'll be able to refer you to a dog behaviorist who will be able to determine the cause of your dogs stress. If your dog has severe separation anxiety, an anti-anxiety medication might be considered to alleviate the anxiety. Drugs are not a complete solution, however, and should be used along with a treatment program.
4. Your dog might have developed an incessant licking habit because he has an injury that has resulted in an open wound.
A dog that has developed an injury that has resulted in an open wound will lick himself incessantly in an attempt to clean the wound and keep it free from bacteria. Dog saliva has been proven to kill some germs and when your dog licks an open wound, it will aid in keeping the wound infection free.
Veterinarian treatment may be required if your dog appears to be in pain, the wound contains a foreign material and is deep enough to require stitches, is bleeding excessively or becomes infected.
5. Your dog might have developed a relentless licking habit because he has developed the bad habit of doing so.
Some dogs develop the habit of licking their paws incessantly despite them being clean, uninjured and parasite-free!
Your dog may develop the habit of constantly licking himself because he has alot of nervous energy and no way to alleviate the stress. He also may have learned this behavior because he is bored and this is a way to entertain himself!
Give your dog lots of time to play and run and work off any excess energy. If your dog is well-exercised and happy, he won't feel the need to relentlessly lick himself to relieve stress or boredom!
The information detailed above will help you discover and correct your dog's habit of chronic licking. With careful observation and a little attention to proper grooming, training, along with regular veterinarian visits, you can 'lick' your dog's incessant licking habit!
1. Your dog might have developed an unrelenting licking habit because he needs a bath.
If your dog spends alot of time outside, romping through the woods, tramping in the mud, rolling in the grass or wading in the nearest stream or pond, he is probably dirty. So, your dog may be constantly licking himself because the dirt is irritating him! Plus, all that outdoor activity may have gotten him infested with ticks, fleas, mites, or lice. Your dog’s incessant licking may be an attempt to rid himself of those nasty varmints!
Give him a bath with a veterinarian-approved flea and tick shampoo. Before bathing him, make sure you brush out all the mats and tangles from his coat or the bathing will make them worse.
2. Your dog might have developed a chronic licking habit because he has a skin disorder.
Some common skin disorders that a dog may develop are mange or dermatitis. Mange is a skin disease in dogs that is caused by various types of mites. The dermatitis could be caused by an allergic reaction to fleas, dust mites, mold or a certain brand of dog food. If you suspect that your dog has a case of mange or dermatitis, your veterinarian will be able to diagnose what the disorder is and prescribe a course of treatment.
3. Your dog might have developed a persistent licking habit because he is under stress.
The stress may be a result of a new adoption, physical abuse, separation anxiety, or even a reaction to a new food.
If you think separation anxiety might be the cause of his stress, there are several methods for solving the problem. Try exposing your dog to being alone for very short periods of time. When your dog has adjusted to being alone for that duration of time, gradually increase your departure period. If you must be away from your dog for a long period of time, while you are away at work, try to find a friend or neighbor who could come over and take him for a walk a couple of times during the day.
Perhaps a new dog in the family is causing the stress? It is very common to experience a period of stress and adjustment when a new dog is brought into a household that has an established pet. One way to help make the transition a little easier is to give your older dog alot of attention and love. It will let him know that he's still a vital part of the family. Just remember that it will take time for your dogs to adjust to one another and be one happy dog family!
Changing your dog’s diet can also cause stress. If you're thinking of feeding your dog a new brand of dry dog food, do it gradually and over a period of four days or longer. On the first day that you change the food, feed your dog one quarter of the new food with three quarters of the old food. Add in another quarter of the new food after a couple of days or so. After another two days, add in another quarter of the new dog food. Finally, after another couple of days or so, you will be able to leave out the old dog food entirely!
If you cannot determine the cause of your dog's stress, talk to your veterinarian. He'll be able to refer you to a dog behaviorist who will be able to determine the cause of your dogs stress. If your dog has severe separation anxiety, an anti-anxiety medication might be considered to alleviate the anxiety. Drugs are not a complete solution, however, and should be used along with a treatment program.
4. Your dog might have developed an incessant licking habit because he has an injury that has resulted in an open wound.
A dog that has developed an injury that has resulted in an open wound will lick himself incessantly in an attempt to clean the wound and keep it free from bacteria. Dog saliva has been proven to kill some germs and when your dog licks an open wound, it will aid in keeping the wound infection free.
Veterinarian treatment may be required if your dog appears to be in pain, the wound contains a foreign material and is deep enough to require stitches, is bleeding excessively or becomes infected.
5. Your dog might have developed a relentless licking habit because he has developed the bad habit of doing so.
Some dogs develop the habit of licking their paws incessantly despite them being clean, uninjured and parasite-free!
Your dog may develop the habit of constantly licking himself because he has alot of nervous energy and no way to alleviate the stress. He also may have learned this behavior because he is bored and this is a way to entertain himself!
Give your dog lots of time to play and run and work off any excess energy. If your dog is well-exercised and happy, he won't feel the need to relentlessly lick himself to relieve stress or boredom!
The information detailed above will help you discover and correct your dog's habit of chronic licking. With careful observation and a little attention to proper grooming, training, along with regular veterinarian visits, you can 'lick' your dog's incessant licking habit!
2008年9月1日星期一
Proper Housing Arrangements for Red-Footed Tortoises
The Red-Footed Tortoise is not a large turtle. It is not small either, being in the middle of the size range for turtles. This said, the Red-Footed Tortoise needs a very large area to live in a healthy manner. A minimum size for a habitat for these creatures should be roughly 2.5 metres by 2.5 metres. The best place to house these turtles is outside. There are several things that need attention though. The humidity should always be between 60% and 85%, and the temperature should never be below 50 degrees F. If any or all of these conditions can not be met, you must house them inside, and simulate the conditions.
When keeping them outdoors, make sure you offer them plenty of protection from the sun. They will also want plenty of tall grass, plant life and a shallow but heavy dish of water. Red-Footed Tortoises are land based turtles, and do not need deep water.
When keeping the tortoises indoors, there is a set of guidelines you must follow. You can use whatever material you see fit, but wood is the most common. Make sure the floor of the enclosure is waterproof, in case any water is knocked over. A wooden floor may cause problems, as the water will seep into the wood, and over time could cause mould problems. If on concrete, never leave the floor bare. This has been noted as a cause of health problems in turtles, the most common being penis prolapse. This said, the bottom, whatever material it is, needs to be covered with a more natural substrate. Mulch type substrate works well. Peat moss, sphagnum moss and play sand are recommended. A mixture of peat moss and sand is the best substrate. Make sure the sides of the enclosure are tall enough to prevent the turtles from getting out. Like most reptiles, Red-Footed Tortoises require hiding places. They will also need an area that has increased humidity. A large container, on its side, with dampened substrate works well. When needed, the tortoise will crawl inside to get to the humid area.
You must also provide your tortoises with a heat gradient. This can be achieved by placing a basking lamp on one end of the enclosure. The cool side should be kept around 73 degrees F, and the hot end should be kept around 87 degrees F. If you have multiple tortoises you will need to provide multiple basking spots. Drop the temperature at night to be 57 degrees F to 60 degrees F, and like outdoors, never let this temperature drop to or below 50 degrees F.
Aside from the heating lights, full-spectrum fluorescent lighting is necessary for proper synthesis of vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is needed to properly use calcium in the tortoise’s body. You should always bring your turtles outside on warm days, as the natural sunlight provides the best vitamins you can get from light.
When keeping them outdoors, make sure you offer them plenty of protection from the sun. They will also want plenty of tall grass, plant life and a shallow but heavy dish of water. Red-Footed Tortoises are land based turtles, and do not need deep water.
When keeping the tortoises indoors, there is a set of guidelines you must follow. You can use whatever material you see fit, but wood is the most common. Make sure the floor of the enclosure is waterproof, in case any water is knocked over. A wooden floor may cause problems, as the water will seep into the wood, and over time could cause mould problems. If on concrete, never leave the floor bare. This has been noted as a cause of health problems in turtles, the most common being penis prolapse. This said, the bottom, whatever material it is, needs to be covered with a more natural substrate. Mulch type substrate works well. Peat moss, sphagnum moss and play sand are recommended. A mixture of peat moss and sand is the best substrate. Make sure the sides of the enclosure are tall enough to prevent the turtles from getting out. Like most reptiles, Red-Footed Tortoises require hiding places. They will also need an area that has increased humidity. A large container, on its side, with dampened substrate works well. When needed, the tortoise will crawl inside to get to the humid area.
You must also provide your tortoises with a heat gradient. This can be achieved by placing a basking lamp on one end of the enclosure. The cool side should be kept around 73 degrees F, and the hot end should be kept around 87 degrees F. If you have multiple tortoises you will need to provide multiple basking spots. Drop the temperature at night to be 57 degrees F to 60 degrees F, and like outdoors, never let this temperature drop to or below 50 degrees F.
Aside from the heating lights, full-spectrum fluorescent lighting is necessary for proper synthesis of vitamin D3. Vitamin D3 is needed to properly use calcium in the tortoise’s body. You should always bring your turtles outside on warm days, as the natural sunlight provides the best vitamins you can get from light.
2008年8月24日星期日
Recommended Potty Training Methods for Your Pup
Potty training your new puppy is not always an easy task. Some pups are easy to train while others seem to take much longer. It will take a lot of patience, but your dog will learn.
The newspaper method seems to be the best way for a dog to learn. A space of his own where he has his food, water, toys and bed is ideal. Cover the entire area with newspaper. When you have to leave him home, shut him in this area. After a while, he will start using one spot on the newspapers. Start removing the other pieces of newspaper a bit at a time. Soon, "his" area will become just that one spot. As he gets older, he will be able to wait until you get home to go. Don't punish your dog if he misses the newspaper. He won't know what you are punishing him for.
"Puppy pads" are a good alternative to old newspapers. They are a lot more sanitary and they are much easier to clean up.
Always take your dog outside (to his designated area) as soon as you get home. She needs to know that outside is her potty area. When you are at home, spend as much time with her as you can and watch her closely. She will show signs of needing to "go" by getting restless, turning in circles and sniffing out areas. Take her outside immediately. Praise her lavishly when she does her business outside. It is also helpful to carry treats with you when you are first training her to potty outside.
Take your puppy outside every 45 minutes or so because you may not always be able to tell when he needs the "bathroom." Again, praise him and show him how excited you are that he is being a "good" boy. You will not need to go outside with her after a while. Once she knows where she is supposed to go, she will always go to that spot.
You can show disapproval when your puppy goes in the house but do not -- I repeat -- do NOT ever hit him. He won't learn any faster by using cruel methods such as these.
Some dogs wet themselves when they get excited about something or when they are especially happy to see someone. This is called submissive urinating and can be quite a problem with young dogs. It can be especially embarrassing if Fido "goes" on a visitor to your home. This type of bathroom training is not as easy to do as normal training. Potty training your dog will help him know he should only go outside.
There is no set age when you dog is considered to be properly potty trained. In fact, a puppy can't be considered fully trained until it is at least six months old. And, some dogs will be older still.
The newspaper method seems to be the best way for a dog to learn. A space of his own where he has his food, water, toys and bed is ideal. Cover the entire area with newspaper. When you have to leave him home, shut him in this area. After a while, he will start using one spot on the newspapers. Start removing the other pieces of newspaper a bit at a time. Soon, "his" area will become just that one spot. As he gets older, he will be able to wait until you get home to go. Don't punish your dog if he misses the newspaper. He won't know what you are punishing him for.
"Puppy pads" are a good alternative to old newspapers. They are a lot more sanitary and they are much easier to clean up.
Always take your dog outside (to his designated area) as soon as you get home. She needs to know that outside is her potty area. When you are at home, spend as much time with her as you can and watch her closely. She will show signs of needing to "go" by getting restless, turning in circles and sniffing out areas. Take her outside immediately. Praise her lavishly when she does her business outside. It is also helpful to carry treats with you when you are first training her to potty outside.
Take your puppy outside every 45 minutes or so because you may not always be able to tell when he needs the "bathroom." Again, praise him and show him how excited you are that he is being a "good" boy. You will not need to go outside with her after a while. Once she knows where she is supposed to go, she will always go to that spot.
You can show disapproval when your puppy goes in the house but do not -- I repeat -- do NOT ever hit him. He won't learn any faster by using cruel methods such as these.
Some dogs wet themselves when they get excited about something or when they are especially happy to see someone. This is called submissive urinating and can be quite a problem with young dogs. It can be especially embarrassing if Fido "goes" on a visitor to your home. This type of bathroom training is not as easy to do as normal training. Potty training your dog will help him know he should only go outside.
There is no set age when you dog is considered to be properly potty trained. In fact, a puppy can't be considered fully trained until it is at least six months old. And, some dogs will be older still.
2008年8月19日星期二
Doggy Treats or Pet Training Treat - Do You Know the Difference?
When you are trying to train your pet you will need a ready supply of canine motivational incentives, otherwise known as treats. The use of dog treats as a training motivator is nothing new to pet trainers, and for good reason. To your dog these tasty treats can be quite an effective training tool. Unfortunately there does seem to be some confusion over the difference of what is classified as a doggy treat and a dog "training" treat. Let's take a moment to clarify the difference.
First thing to keep in mind is that anything your feed your dog outside of their normal feeding time can be considered a treat. Whether your feeding him Twinkies (not good), or beefy chews (good), extra food is looked at as a reward. What makes a dog training treat special is that you should only use those specific treats during training sessions.
If you are rewarding your dog for normal daily good behavior, or when you simply feel the need to give your pet a tasty treat, then by all means give them a treat they will enjoy, but be careful, as too many rewards given for no effort diminishes the effectiveness of each reward.
But when you are actively training your pets, you will want to use a superior quality treat. Pick something that they will absolutely go nuts for. Simple generic biscuits might just not be enough to get your dog to do stuff. Break out the dried liver treats or the chicken jerky. You want you pet's undivided attention when you're training them, and what better way then to use treats they gobble right up. Make sure that your pet is performing the required tasks before he gets this treat.
I keep a jar full of regular treats, much about the consistency of their normal food. They get these for going in their crates at night or as a simple reward. When training I will use a single piece of human quality jerked chicken. One piece can be broken into smaller pieces and will last an entire 30 minute training session. The response is often enough to cause the dog to forget about additional distractions, like the other dogs in the kennel.
We're not talking keeping an entire cupboard of separate treats, but you should separate them so your dog can learn the difference between them. When your dog is getting rewarded all the time from normal treats, you have to step up the treat for better responsiveness during training sessions. This is not rocket science; just have two sets of treats, one normal and one of a much higher quality.
First thing to keep in mind is that anything your feed your dog outside of their normal feeding time can be considered a treat. Whether your feeding him Twinkies (not good), or beefy chews (good), extra food is looked at as a reward. What makes a dog training treat special is that you should only use those specific treats during training sessions.
If you are rewarding your dog for normal daily good behavior, or when you simply feel the need to give your pet a tasty treat, then by all means give them a treat they will enjoy, but be careful, as too many rewards given for no effort diminishes the effectiveness of each reward.
But when you are actively training your pets, you will want to use a superior quality treat. Pick something that they will absolutely go nuts for. Simple generic biscuits might just not be enough to get your dog to do stuff. Break out the dried liver treats or the chicken jerky. You want you pet's undivided attention when you're training them, and what better way then to use treats they gobble right up. Make sure that your pet is performing the required tasks before he gets this treat.
I keep a jar full of regular treats, much about the consistency of their normal food. They get these for going in their crates at night or as a simple reward. When training I will use a single piece of human quality jerked chicken. One piece can be broken into smaller pieces and will last an entire 30 minute training session. The response is often enough to cause the dog to forget about additional distractions, like the other dogs in the kennel.
We're not talking keeping an entire cupboard of separate treats, but you should separate them so your dog can learn the difference between them. When your dog is getting rewarded all the time from normal treats, you have to step up the treat for better responsiveness during training sessions. This is not rocket science; just have two sets of treats, one normal and one of a much higher quality.
2008年8月12日星期二
Crate Training For Your Puppy
Teaching your puppy crate training is the first and best step in his life. It makes all the other steps in his training go so much smoother, much like a solid foundation makes for a superior wall. Establishing you as the Alpha member of his “pack” is one very good reason for starting your puppy in a crate when he is very young.
Another reason for crate training is that dogs love predictability. To know what is going to happen in any given situation makes him happy, and more apt to be the best-behaved dog he can possibly be.
A strong crate is the very basis of good puppy training. A wire crate with a lock is the best kind. Make sure it is large enough for him to stand up and turn around. But not so large that he can roam and wander around. A too-large crate will inhibit house breaking.
A crate that is just the right size will be perceived as his “nest”, where puppies never “go potty”. They will learn to hold it if you don’t make a prison out of it. Never leave a puppy under 8 weeks longer than one hour in his crate. He will soil it, after struggling and suffering as long as he can.
Put a nice pad in there with a bone. Start with placing a tasty treat in there, he will go in and get it. Do this several times without closing the door, let him come in and out freely for an hour or so. Praise him highly each time he goes in, make it all very pleasant.
Then when his attention is on his treat, close the door. Praise him quietly, say, “What a good boy, it’s ok, such a good boy!” In 10 or 20 seconds, no longer, let him out without a word, no praise, just a pat. Do this for increasingly longer intervals, but do not give him a chance to get upset. You can do this several times the first day.
Make sure every training session ends on a happy note, this is crucial.
Once he sees the crate is his own private territory, he will go in there on his own, expecting treats and your attention. When he does, say, “Wanna crate?” with a happy face while getting his treats. Start leaving the room while he is in there for 2 minutes and onward, gradually. When you return, don’t make a fuss, just walk over and open the crate. In 3 days he will be officially crate-trained, ready to be left alone for an hour, no longer at first. Leave him gradually longer, slowly and carefully.
Q. Why do I want a crate for my puppy?
A. Because they love it is the best reason. They feel very safe and secure in there. Here are some more:
--When you leave a puppy alone, he always has some measure of separation anxiety. This leads him to any behavior that brings him comfort, which is chewing, digging, or when it is severe, voiding his bowels.
--When placed in a crate, he feels safe because nothing can get to him, nothing can harm him. He will sleep and chew and wait for you to return.
--When leaving him overnight at the vet, if your dog is not crate trained he will cry the entire time, feeling lost and abandoned. With crate training, he is sure you will return, you always do. Of course the vet’s office is strange and will cause him some anxiety, but nothing like the pure terror he will feel without experience in being locked in.
NOTE: About crate-training, do not make a prison of his crate. Do not use it as punishment. Do not leave him there for more than 2 hours, just time for a long puppy nap and some chew time. After that he will cry. Do not remove him while he is crying. This will make him think he has to cry to get out. No matter what, make sure he is being good when you open the door. He will learn he has to be quiet to get out. Do not make a fuss when you are letting him out, just quietly open the door and take him out to potty. When he potties, praise him to high heaven! Dogs naturally do not go where they nest, but sometimes it happens. Do not scold, just clean it out with a bland face. He will learn the lesson. If possible, try to clean it while he is outside so he returns to a clean crate.
In 25 years of training dogs, I have never seen any one thing more critical for a dog's well-being than good crate training. And besides, they love it!
Another reason for crate training is that dogs love predictability. To know what is going to happen in any given situation makes him happy, and more apt to be the best-behaved dog he can possibly be.
A strong crate is the very basis of good puppy training. A wire crate with a lock is the best kind. Make sure it is large enough for him to stand up and turn around. But not so large that he can roam and wander around. A too-large crate will inhibit house breaking.
A crate that is just the right size will be perceived as his “nest”, where puppies never “go potty”. They will learn to hold it if you don’t make a prison out of it. Never leave a puppy under 8 weeks longer than one hour in his crate. He will soil it, after struggling and suffering as long as he can.
Put a nice pad in there with a bone. Start with placing a tasty treat in there, he will go in and get it. Do this several times without closing the door, let him come in and out freely for an hour or so. Praise him highly each time he goes in, make it all very pleasant.
Then when his attention is on his treat, close the door. Praise him quietly, say, “What a good boy, it’s ok, such a good boy!” In 10 or 20 seconds, no longer, let him out without a word, no praise, just a pat. Do this for increasingly longer intervals, but do not give him a chance to get upset. You can do this several times the first day.
Make sure every training session ends on a happy note, this is crucial.
Once he sees the crate is his own private territory, he will go in there on his own, expecting treats and your attention. When he does, say, “Wanna crate?” with a happy face while getting his treats. Start leaving the room while he is in there for 2 minutes and onward, gradually. When you return, don’t make a fuss, just walk over and open the crate. In 3 days he will be officially crate-trained, ready to be left alone for an hour, no longer at first. Leave him gradually longer, slowly and carefully.
Q. Why do I want a crate for my puppy?
A. Because they love it is the best reason. They feel very safe and secure in there. Here are some more:
--When you leave a puppy alone, he always has some measure of separation anxiety. This leads him to any behavior that brings him comfort, which is chewing, digging, or when it is severe, voiding his bowels.
--When placed in a crate, he feels safe because nothing can get to him, nothing can harm him. He will sleep and chew and wait for you to return.
--When leaving him overnight at the vet, if your dog is not crate trained he will cry the entire time, feeling lost and abandoned. With crate training, he is sure you will return, you always do. Of course the vet’s office is strange and will cause him some anxiety, but nothing like the pure terror he will feel without experience in being locked in.
NOTE: About crate-training, do not make a prison of his crate. Do not use it as punishment. Do not leave him there for more than 2 hours, just time for a long puppy nap and some chew time. After that he will cry. Do not remove him while he is crying. This will make him think he has to cry to get out. No matter what, make sure he is being good when you open the door. He will learn he has to be quiet to get out. Do not make a fuss when you are letting him out, just quietly open the door and take him out to potty. When he potties, praise him to high heaven! Dogs naturally do not go where they nest, but sometimes it happens. Do not scold, just clean it out with a bland face. He will learn the lesson. If possible, try to clean it while he is outside so he returns to a clean crate.
In 25 years of training dogs, I have never seen any one thing more critical for a dog's well-being than good crate training. And besides, they love it!
2008年8月11日星期一
Important Characteristics Necessary To Training A Dog
Bearing in mind that our object is to train a dumb animal for companionship we can, by appeal through the three senses, hearing, sight and feeling, accomplish great things. We can, for instance, save the dog much unnecessary punishment brought about by our own impatience: we can save ourselves the physical strain of the dog's constant pulling upon the leash. True, we do not want a mechanical robot, rendering blind obedience to our every command, but we do want a real companion as close to us in understanding as man and dog can ever be. The three senses, then, operate in combination by our use of short commands issued in varying intonations; by certain important signs of the hands made in conjunction with the voice, and by appeal to the sense of feeling by encouragement or punishment.
Perhaps right here I should caution the reader against the wrong impression which the word punishment may connote. Because punishment in this discussion does not mean whipping or starving the dog, I dislike using the expression at all. It signifies, rather, correction, so for present purposes let us employ the term correction as more exactly indicative.
Like bright colored threads predominating in a pattern, the use of the three mentioned senses will follow through the whole of our training. And just how important the combination of the three becomes, we will realize when we see how the dog associates with hearing, commands given by means of words; with seeing, commands given by means of signs; and with feeling, such things as petting and leash correction. Were the trainer to disregard even one of these senses, he would straightway find out why he, or the dog, failed in one or another lesson. Particularly are there signs, frequently almost unnoticeable to the layman and the amateur, which will mean the success or failure of the lesson.
And what of the trainer himself! There are three fundamentals with which he must be concerned - patience, concentration and seriousness of purpose.
Patience is probably the trainer's most necessary tool. Nervousness, quick temper or the slightest impatience never go hand in hand with successful training, and a person subject to any one of these failings may well think twice before he undertakes to train a dog.
On concentration, many times have I been criticized for apparent rudeness when I have refused to take part in conversations during the training period. But a serious trainer must realize how much is involved in schooling a dog untried, and of character unknown: throughout each lesson, he must study his pupil without interruption, and his attention must be given equally, in succession, to each and every dog. Training periods are comparatively short; hence it is not unduly difficult to concentrate entirely upon the dog in hand.
Another consideration vital to successful training is seriousness of purpose. Ask yourself whether you are really determined to train your dog. Is this dog under your hand to become a well behaved animal? Or is he going to be a spoiled pest, inclined to destructiveness; vicious with people, an eternal barker, constantly committing nuisance!
You will find that the work of training entails some sacrifices, but they are sacrifices worth while. For in addition to the pleasure derived from participation in organized obedience test competition, you will discover before very long that your dog is admired and respected because he is so well behaved.
And if you are sufficiently interested to continue on with your training, who knows but that this dog of yours may some day prove to be a real, front page hero by virtue of some outstanding act! Dogs owned by several of my pupils have already served the public good by helping the police to find lost persons, and by trailing and so leading to the capture of criminals.
Founded upon a thoroughly tried and approved system, the patient training of a dog by his beloved master is a worthy and satisfying work which not alone actually benefits the dog but which reflects credit upon him and upon his owner. All this at a sacrifice of but fifteen or, at the most, thirty minutes a day!
Perhaps right here I should caution the reader against the wrong impression which the word punishment may connote. Because punishment in this discussion does not mean whipping or starving the dog, I dislike using the expression at all. It signifies, rather, correction, so for present purposes let us employ the term correction as more exactly indicative.
Like bright colored threads predominating in a pattern, the use of the three mentioned senses will follow through the whole of our training. And just how important the combination of the three becomes, we will realize when we see how the dog associates with hearing, commands given by means of words; with seeing, commands given by means of signs; and with feeling, such things as petting and leash correction. Were the trainer to disregard even one of these senses, he would straightway find out why he, or the dog, failed in one or another lesson. Particularly are there signs, frequently almost unnoticeable to the layman and the amateur, which will mean the success or failure of the lesson.
And what of the trainer himself! There are three fundamentals with which he must be concerned - patience, concentration and seriousness of purpose.
Patience is probably the trainer's most necessary tool. Nervousness, quick temper or the slightest impatience never go hand in hand with successful training, and a person subject to any one of these failings may well think twice before he undertakes to train a dog.
On concentration, many times have I been criticized for apparent rudeness when I have refused to take part in conversations during the training period. But a serious trainer must realize how much is involved in schooling a dog untried, and of character unknown: throughout each lesson, he must study his pupil without interruption, and his attention must be given equally, in succession, to each and every dog. Training periods are comparatively short; hence it is not unduly difficult to concentrate entirely upon the dog in hand.
Another consideration vital to successful training is seriousness of purpose. Ask yourself whether you are really determined to train your dog. Is this dog under your hand to become a well behaved animal? Or is he going to be a spoiled pest, inclined to destructiveness; vicious with people, an eternal barker, constantly committing nuisance!
You will find that the work of training entails some sacrifices, but they are sacrifices worth while. For in addition to the pleasure derived from participation in organized obedience test competition, you will discover before very long that your dog is admired and respected because he is so well behaved.
And if you are sufficiently interested to continue on with your training, who knows but that this dog of yours may some day prove to be a real, front page hero by virtue of some outstanding act! Dogs owned by several of my pupils have already served the public good by helping the police to find lost persons, and by trailing and so leading to the capture of criminals.
Founded upon a thoroughly tried and approved system, the patient training of a dog by his beloved master is a worthy and satisfying work which not alone actually benefits the dog but which reflects credit upon him and upon his owner. All this at a sacrifice of but fifteen or, at the most, thirty minutes a day!
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